Installation Photo's and Tips

Here is the proper tool to remove the toe link:

A screw driver or a pry bar and a little force pops the halfshaft right out of the diff:

Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

First is the saw-cut of the upper control arm bushing flange for the removal tool to fit.
 

(click image to enlarge)

Saw-cut the upper control arm bushing flange at 1.750"

(click image to enlarge)

Here is how the tool sits on the upper control arm to remove the bushing once the flange is cut.

(click image to enlarge)

Before reinstalling the upper control arm into the IRS, clean and smooth out

the inside of the buckets with a disk sander.

(click image to enlarge)

Then spread the ears of the bucket slightly and get them as parallel to each other as possible.

(click image to enlarge)

Lower Control Arm Bushing Removal

Here is a picture of the removal tool removing the smaller LCA front bushing:

(click image to enlarge)

And a picture of the removal tool removing the larger rear bushing.  Lubricate threads well with never-seize.

The large washer is what pulls the bushing out of the control arm.

(click image to enlarge)

This takes considerable effort.  Get a long 1/2" or even 3/4" breaker bar and wail on this thing.  You can skip going to the gym the night you do this!

Subframe Bushing Removal

Here is a photo of the subframe bushing removal tool:

(click image to enlarge)

WARNING!!! Removal of the subframe bushings can be difficult.  You will encounter a lot of resistance and put excessive pressure on the threaded rod if you don't first take a 1/4" drill bit and drill numerous holes to weaken it.  It is preferable to drill as close to the outer metal sleeve as you can.  The rubber is vulcanized in this sleeve and this will free it up for easier removal.  If you put excess pressure on the threaded rod you’re going to break it.  The removal tools now include two different sized threaded rods to remove the subframe bushings.   You can use the larger one on the front subframe bushings but only the smaller threaded rod will fit through the bore to remove the rear subframe bushings.  If you have a large C-clamp at your disposal you can try to squeeze an impact socket against the bushing pressing into the removal cup.  If you have a ball joint removal tool, these will also work.  These approaches obviously do not involve the threaded rod.

The subframe bushings are VERY difficult to remove and drilling them helps a LOT.  Here is a pic of the bushing drilled with a 1/4" drill.  Keep the holes as close to the metal sleeve as possible and drill from both sides:
 

(click image to enlarge)

Here is the bushing almost out. Put double large washers on the bushing side.

(click image to enlarge)

(click image to enlarge)

(click image to enlarge)

Here are the subframe bushings after they are removed.

(click image to enlarge)

Notice that the outer metal sleeve on the subframe bushing location stays.

Here is a 2" diameter coarse wire wheel cleaning the bores in preparation for the UHMW bushings.  When the wire wheel is brand new it's a little tough to get it started.  It helps starting it on the side that has the flange:

(click image to enlarge)

This is what the super clean bore looks like after the wire brushing procedure:

(click image to enlarge)

The later model Cobra's have a washer tack welded on the forward portion of the rear LCA bucket.  It looks like this:

(click image to enlarge)

I like to use an air chisel and they pop right off.  Here I'm showing it lifted up:

(click image to enlarge)

You can use a cold chisel and a hammer or a die grinder with a cut-off (pizza) wheel on it.  The main thing is to remove the washer.

Here is a photo of the washer removed:

(click image to enlarge)

Once the washer is removed you need to grind it smooth.  Looks like this when you're done:

(click image to enlarge)

Rear Differential Support

The subframe bushing removal tool is also used to remove the factory rear diff bushing.

  Here is the removal tool set-up for removal of the OEM rear mount rubber bushing.

(click image to enlarge)

Bushing removed.

(click image to enlarge)

Here are some install pictures of the Delrin rear diff mount bushings.  Once the OEM rubber and aluminum inner sleeve have been removed, you can begin the installation of the Delrin. 

Here is a photo pressing the first Delrin bushing in.  The bracket is sitting on the press with an 1/8" plate slid in between to allow the bracket to be pressed down onto the bushing as shown in the following photo:

(click image to enlarge)

Here is the Delrin bushing shown seated:

(click image to enlarge)

Here is the second bushing being pressed in:

(click image to enlarge)

This photo is showing the beveled lead on the aluminum inner sleeve that needs to be pressed in with this leading edge first:

(click image to enlarge)

Here is the inner sleeve being pressed in:

(click image to enlarge)

And finally the completed assembly:

(click image to enlarge)

Because the Delrin rear diff mount will rub slightly on the rear diff cover, a nice chamfer to the Delrin on a belt sander will give you plenty of clearance.  Here is a photo of the assembly chamfered and ready to install:

(click image to enlarge)

Grease Fitting Kit

Here are some pictures of the grease fitting kits and installation on the control arms. 

Grease fittings will assure you a lifetime of trouble free and silent operation.

 It is highly recommended to install grease fittings.

Drilling the control arm.  Don't try to freehand this.  That may cause your hole to be slightly oversize.  Drill slowly and use cutting oil.  Because of the relatively thin cross section of the UCA at this point I only recommend a 5mm drilled hole, tapped to 6mm.  Anything larger than that is not acceptable to me or recommended:

(click image to enlarge)

Here is the installation of the new tapped 6mm 90 degree grease fittings.  The forward eye needs to point down and to the front of the car at about a 10 or 15 degree angle.  The rear fitting needs to also point forward but at about a 45 degree angle.  I've found these positions to be very favorable.  Look at your IRS in the car before you pull it out to see if you agree with the positions of these fittings.  That is why the instructions state: Look at your IRS assembly while it is still in the car and pick a good accessible location and what type of angle/orientation you’re going to want for the grease fittings.

(click image to enlarge)

IRS LCA Front eye w/90 degree fitting installed on top of the control arm pointing at a 45 degree angle rearward:

(click image to enlarge)

IRS LCA Rear eye w/straight fitting on the bottom pointing straight down:

(click image to enlarge)

Here is a short video showing the Shimming Washer and Grease Fitting Locations

(click image to view)

Here are a few pictures of the IRS with the bushing kit installed:

(click image to enlarge)

(click image to enlarge)

(click image to enlarge)

Before putting the subframe assembly back in the chassis it's a good idea to spread the front mount locations a bit.  They have a tendency to squeeze together making the replacement of the subframe more difficult than it should be.  If you have a port-a-power you can open this pocket as shown in the photo below.  If you don't have a port-a-power you can use a 6" long piece of 1/2" threaded rod with some washers and nuts spreading this area open a bit:

(click image to enlarge)

Here is a photo of the front diff support.  This particular photo shows a Terminator set-up with the smaller bushing on top and the thicker bushing on the bottom.  The object with a Terminator is to raise the front nose of differential up as high as you can without rubbing anywhere on the subframe.  A New Edge car would have the thicker bushing on the top and the thinner one on the bottom.  Obviously the driveline angles need to be checked once the IRS goes back into the chassis and the shimming washers can be moved at that time to raise or lower the nose of the differential housing for proper placement.
 

(click image to enlarge)

Click here for information on Setting the Pinion Angle

Here is a photo of the link mounted on a mock-up IRS assembly:

(click image to enlarge)

Click here for the Installation video of the adjustable sway bar link

The upper and lower mounting bolts will come to you assembled and tight on the heim joints. You will notice
there is a thin jamb nut on one of the mounting bolts and a thicker standard thickness nut on the other. The standard
thickness nut that goes on the upper mounting point assists in getting the alignment between the anti-sway bar
and the control arm improved. This upper mounting bolt is 5mm shorter than the lower mounting bolt. You want
to make sure the eyes of the heim joints are lined up when tightening them making sure one is not cocked to one
side or the other.  Install the link on the outside of the anti-sway bar and from the outside on the lower control
arm.

When installing these links make sure the car is level and there is no pressure on the links when tightening the mounting hardware. The car will need to be on a drive-on lift or jacked up onto four drive on ramps to do this.  If there is pressure on the links you risk shifting the car's weight from one side to the other. The torque specs for these 10mm nuts are 33 ft. lbs. or 45Nm.

IRS Torque Specs

WARRANTY AND DISCLAIMER

WARRANTY AND DISCLAIMER: FULL TILT BOOGIE RACING, INC., A WISCONSIN CORPORATION (“SELLER”), HEREBY WARRANTS THAT THE ENCLOSED AUTOMOTIVE COMPONENTS ARE FREE FROM DEFECTS IN WORKMANSHIP AT THE TIME OF SHIPMENT, BUT DISCLAIMS AND EXCLUDES ANY AND ALL OTHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES REGARDING THE ENCLOSED AUTOMOTIVE COMPONENTS.  PURSUANT TO THE UNIFORM COMMERCIAL CODE, ARTICLE 2, SECTION 316, SELLER SPECIFICALLY EXCLUDES ALL WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR ANY PARTICULAR PURPOSE.  SELLER DIRECTS PURCHASER TO FULLY INSPECT AND EXAMINE EACH ENCLOSED AUTOMOTIVE COMPONENT BEFORE INSTALLATION AND TO USE EACH AUTOMOTIVE COMPONENT AT PURCHASER’S OWN RISK.  IN THE EVENT THAT ANY AUTOMOTIVE COMPONENT IS DEFECTIVE UPON PURCHASER’S RECEIPT, PURCHASER’S SOLE REMEDY SHALL BE TO RETURN THE DEFECTIVE AND UNUSED AUTOMOTIVE COMPONENT TO SELLER WITHIN FIFTEEN (15) DAYS AFTER PURCHASER’S RECEIPT AND REQUEST IN WRITING EITHER A FULL REFUND OR A REPLACEMENT, WHICH SELLER SHALL SHIP TO PURCHASER AT NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE. 

Full Tilt Boogie Racing Inc........1817 Dolphin Drive.......Waukesha, WI  53186.........info@fulltiltboogieracing.com